General FAQ

Choosing the right barrel depends on your purpose:

• 1–5L for gifts, tasting sets, or experimental batches
• 10–20L for home use, aging, or vinegar
• 30L+ for long-term aging, winemaking, whisky or breweries

Barrels can be reused many times if properly cared for — rinse after use, store cool, and avoid letting them dry out.

The main principle to understand is simple:
An oak barrel is made of natural wood — and wood reacts to its environment.
It can dry out and crack in heat and sunlight, or swell and grow mould in high humidity — especially if water is left inside for more than a few days (up to one week).

There’s no one-size-fits-all method — proper storage depends on your situation:

1. A brand-new barrel not yet in use
2. A barrel that is filled and active
3. An empty barrel between uses — both short- and long-term storage

Learn how to store it safely, avoid cracks, prevent mould, and choose between chemical or natural methods.

👉 Read the full guide: How to Store an Oak Barrel Before and Between Uses

Before using a new oak barrel, it must be sealed.

Fill it with water and let it soak for several days — this allows the wood to swell and close any micro-leaks.

For faster results, a hot water soak can also be used.

📖 Step-by-step guide coming soon: “How do I prepare a barrel before first use?”

We use European oak (Quercus Robur) — primarily sourced from Eastern Europe.
It has a tight grain structure, ideal for aging, and is naturally rich in tannins and aroma compounds.

Every barrel is made from solid oak staves, air-dried and crafted using traditional methods.

With proper care, oak barrels can last for many years

For small barrels (1–10L), the active flavoring life is usually around 2–4 aging cycles, because the high wood-to-liquid ratio means the oak gives up its flavour more quickly.
After that, the barrel becomes more neutral — but it’s far from useless.

You can continue to use it for:

lighter aging (subtle flavor)

vinegar making

infusions

dry goods storage

or even as a decorative or serving vessel

Larger barrels (20L+) retain their character longer and can be reused for many years — especially with proper cleaning, regular use, and correct storage between batches.

🛠 The key to long life:
Don’t let it dry out, avoid mold, clean properly — and store it well.

No — we don’t use any synthetic coatings, lacquers, or varnishes on our barrels.

The inside of our barrels is either charred with fire or left natural, depending on the product.
The outside is lightly sanded and may be treated with a natural oil (such as linseed) for protection — but never anything artificial.

Our barrels, tubs, and other barrel-related items are made from natural oak, without synthetic treatments.
These materials have been traditionally used for aging drinks, fermentation, and food storage for centuries.
We don’t use chemical finishes — only fire and natural oils.

For most traditional uses — aging, pickling, fermenting, storing dry goods — they are considered naturally safe.

Small leaks are common with new oak barrels.
The wood needs time to swell and seal naturally — that’s why we recommend soaking the barrel with water for a few days before first use.

You may also notice dark marks or stains on the outside. This is usually harmless: tannins or natural compounds seeping through the wood — especially if the barrel is stored in a dry or overly warm place, which can cause the wood to shrink slightly.
🧽 These marks can be gently wiped with a dry cloth.

If the barrel still leaks after soaking:

• Try rotating it so the leaking area is at the top — this reduces pressure, allows the spot to dry slightly, and can help it seal
• Make sure storage conditions are cool, shaded, and not too dry
• Drain the barrel completely and let it dry fully for a few days — especially if the leak is persistent or near the base.
  Then try soaking again: warm or hot water often helps the wood expand and seal more evenly
• For small persistent drips, a bit of melted beeswax can be used as a natural patch

If the problem continues, feel free to contact us — and if possible, send a photo. We’ll be happy to help.

• Charred barrels are exposed to open flame until the inside surface blackens and cracks.
  This creates a charcoal layer that filters harsh compounds and adds flavours like vanilla, smoke, and spice — commonly used for whisky and bourbon.
• Toasted barrels are gently heated (without direct flame) to bring out the wood’s natural sugars and aromas.
  This gives a smoother, more subtle character — ideal for wine, rum, or brandy.
• Uncharred barrels are left completely natural inside.
  They’re best for vinegar, dry storage, or when you want the least flavour influence from the wood.

Each type creates a different aging profile — it depends on what you’re making and how bold or soft you want the result to be.

To get started with beekeeping, you’ll need:
a hive, frames, a hive tool, a smoker, a bee suit or veil, gloves, a bee brush, a dummy board, a feeder — and, of course, some bees.

At WoodenShell, we focus on the core wooden elements of the hive —
brood boxes, supers, frames, dummy boards, feeders, and other essential parts.

We don’t sell clothing or accessories — not because they aren’t important, but because we prefer to do one thing well:
offer reliable, well-made hive components at a fair price.

👉 See our full range of beekeeping parts

Beekeeping is more than just honey — it’s a way to support nature, learn something new, and stay connected to the seasons.

Healthy bees play a vital role in pollinating fruits, vegetables, and wild plants. By keeping bees, you’re helping to protect and strengthen pollinator populations, which are under pressure worldwide.

At the same time, you gain a deeper appreciation for how bees live, work, and respond to the world around them.
There’s always more to learn — from hive behavior to seasonal cycles and sustainable methods.

And yes — in return, they give you honey, wax, propolis, and more.

We offer wooden parts and frames for British Standard National hives — the most widely used hive type in the UK.
Our components also fit WBC hives, since they share the same internal dimensions.

If you’re using polystyrene or plastic hives, the sizes should still match — but we recommend double-checking, as fit may vary slightly between manufacturers.

📦 All parts are supplied flat-packed and are easy to assemble.

There’s no single “best” hive — it all depends on your goals, location, and beekeeping style.

In the UK, the National hive remains the most popular: compact, practical, and widely supported.
The WBC hive is a beautiful, traditional option — ideal if appearance matters for your garden setup.

Other types like Commercial, Langstroth, and Smith are used regionally — often influenced by local tradition or beekeeper preference.
And around the world, you’ll find many more:
Dadant in France, Layens in Spain, Langstroth across the US, and Warre or Top Bar hives for natural-style beekeeping.

Each system has its pros and cons — from size and frame compatibility to insulation, handling, and honey yield.

🛠 Due to growing interest, we plan to offer Langstroth-compatible components soon — stay tuned!

👉 Curious about hive types around the world?
Read our blog: “Understanding Hive Systems — National, Langstroth, WBC and More”

Our hives are made from well-dried pine — a solid and time-tested choice for beekeeping in the UK.

Pine isn’t as naturally rot-resistant as cedar, but with basic care — like painting or oiling the exterior — it can last for many years of active use.

Cedar is often considered a premium material, and it does offer some natural advantages. But it also comes at a higher price — often more than the difference most beekeepers will actually notice in real-world use.

If you’re just starting out or expanding your apiary, pine offers excellent value. And with good maintenance, it performs reliably season after season.

We don’t use polystyrene — it’s not environmentally friendly, and it can be easily damaged during routine hive work and inspections.

Wooden hives remain the practical, natural, and trusted choice for thousands of beekeepers — easy to maintain, repair, and enjoy for years.

Assembly is simple — most parts are precision-cut and flat-packed.

At WoodenShell, floors, roofs, and crown boards come pre-assembled, so you only need to put together the boxes (brood and supers) and attach the landing board to the floor beneath the entrance.

📖 Full step-by-step guide with photos: How to Assemble a Wooden Beehive

If you’re using a National or WBC hive (the most common in the UK), frames follow the British Standard (BS) format.

Here’s a simple way to remember:

• DN = Deep National → used in brood boxes
• SN = Shallow National → used in supers

The number after the letters (e.g. DN1, SN4) refers to the frame style — mainly how the top bar and side bars are shaped.

🧷 Frame types at a glance:

• DN1 / SN1 – flat side bars (require spacers or castellations)
• DN2 / SN2 – flat side bars + wider top bar (require spacers or castellations)
• DN4 / SN4 – Hoffman side bars (self-spacing)
• DN5 / SN5 – Hoffman side bars + wider top bar
• 14×12 – extra-deep brood frames for 14×12 brood boxes
• Manley – super frames with wide, straight side bars and reinforced bottom bar

Hoffman frames have angled side bars that naturally space themselves when placed next to each other.
They help maintain proper bee space and eliminate the need for spacers or castellations.

It depends on your region and climate — but for the UK, locally bred bees are usually the best choice.

Imported queens from places like Italy, Greece, or New Zealand may be appealing, but these bees often struggle with the cool, damp UK weather. That’s why British-bred strains are generally more reliable and better adapted to local conditions.

Popular types include:

• Buckfast bees – calm and productive
• Carniolan (Apis mellifera carnica) – gentle and fast-builders
• Italian (Apis mellifera ligustica) – prolific and popular, but more sensitive to weather
• Caucasian – docile, with long tongues (good for deeper nectar sources)
• Carpathian – hardy mountain bees, more common in Eastern Europe

And of course — always consider local hybrids bred for your area.

👉 Curious about bee breeds around the world and which might work for you?
Read our blog: “Understanding Bee Breeds: From Buckfast to Carniolan”