In this article, we want to share the way we assemble our National Beehives in our workshop. Before you begin, it is recommended to read the entire guide from start to finish to get the full picture of the assembly process. This will help you understand the orientation of each component and ensure the hive is assembled correctly. Once you are familiar with all parts, proceed step by step.
National Beehive Set Includes
1 × Varroa mesh floor — assembled
Only the landing board needs to be attached.
1 × Brood box (flat-packed, requires assembly)
Consists of:
— 2 × side walls
— 2 × front and back walls
— 2 × upper rails (top rails)
— 2 × lower rails (bottom rails)
2 × Super boxes (flat-packed, require assembly)
Each super box consists of:
— 2 × side walls
— 2 × front and back walls
— 2 × upper rails (top rails)
— 2 × lower rails (bottom rails)
1 × Crown board — assembled
1 × Roof with metal cover — assembled
You will require nails (40–50 mm length round-head nails), wood glue, or 40 mm wood screws for timber. Allow approximately 20–28 nails or screws per box (around 60–86 in total for the full set) to complete the assembly. These items (nails, glue, screws) are not included.
Only the brood box and the two shallow honey supers require assembly. The roof, crown board, and varroa mesh floor are supplied already assembled. The floor includes a landing board, which simply needs to be attached.
Assembly of Brood Boxes and Shallow Honey Supers
Both the brood box and the shallow honey supers follow the same assembly logic. The components use identical joint profiles, with the same method of fitting the walls and rails together. The only difference is the height of the box, so all assembly steps below apply for the brood box and for the super boxes equally.
Lay Out All Components
Lay out the side walls, front and back walls, and the upper (top) and lower (bottom) rails for the brood box and for each super box.
Arrange all parts on a flat surface so you can clearly see their orientation before assembly.
Gluing All Joint Areas
It is recommended to apply wood glue to all joint areas for a stronger and more durable structure.
Apply a thin, even layer of glue inside the grooves on the side walls and on all connection points where the upper (top) and lower (bottom) rails fit to the side walls.
If you decide not to glue, proceed to the next step.
Installing the Lower (Bottom) and Upper (Top) Rails
Lay one side wall panel flat to make insertion easier.
Insert the lower (bottom) rails into the joint channels on the side wall, making sure the chamfer (bevelled edge ) faces downwards and outwards which allows rainwater to drain away from the box.
Insert the upper (top) rails into the top joint channels on the same side wall, with the recess facing inwards and upwards.
Place the second side wall panel on top, aligning it so the lower (bottom) and upper (top) rails fit into its joint channels in the same way.
Installing the Front and Back Walls
Insert the front and back walls into the joint channels (grooves) on the side walls, sliding them down into place.
Make sure the chamfered (bevelled) edge — which serves as the wooden runner — is positioned at the top, sloping downwards and outwards so it aligns correctly with the recess (rebate) of the rails.
If you plan to use metal runners on the bevelled edges (wooden runners), fix the runners first and then slide the front and back walls into position.
Squaring and Securing the Box
Once all four walls and rails are aligned and fully seated in their joint channels, ensure the box is square. Measure the two diagonals of the box from corner to corner — both measurements must be equal.
Complete the build by fastening the walls to one another and nailing the rails to the walls, making sure the box stays perfectly square throughout the process.
The diagram highlights the essential fixing points, but you can always add more nails or screws wherever you think the joints need to be pulled tighter for a solid finish.
If you use nails, position them closer to the centre of the joint and drive them in at a slight angle to reduce the risk of splitting the wood.
Post-Assembly: National Beehive Treatment and Stacking
Exterior Beehive Wood Treatment
To maximise durability and weather resistance, treat only the exterior surfaces with a bee-safe wood finish, such as linseed oil or specialised non-toxic hive paint.
Important: Never paint or treat the interior of the hive. Bees need the natural wood surface to regulate moisture and propolise the walls naturally.
Correct National Beehive Stacking Order
Once the finish is dry, stack the components in the following order:
- Floor (bottom)
- Brood Box
- Shallow Honey Supers (add as needed)
- Crown Board
- Roof (top )